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On a Winter's Day

ThermostatWith the price of oil approaching $100 a barrel, plenty of people are going to be looking for ways to save money at the gas pump. But residents of the Northeast, where heating oil is commonly used to warm homes in winter, may see their energy bills soar too. No matter where you live, you can save money and energy this winter by following a few simple steps:

Run a tight ship. Minimize the energy needed to heat your home by making sure your windows and doors are well-sealed with caulking and weather-stripping. This easy and inexpensive fix can save as much as 10 percent of winter heating costs.

Seal your ducts. Homes with forced-air heating systems can lose up to 40 percent of their heat if duct joints are poorly sealed. You probably want to get a qualified contractor to do this one, but some states will offer a tax credit to help pay for the work.

Watch your windows. Since most heat loss occurs through the windows, installing thick curtains and drapes can help keep you toasty. Open them during the day to allow warming sunlight to enter, then close them at night to keep the heat inside. Double-paned windows cost more but are worth looking into too.

Temper the temperature. Turning your thermostat down just 5 degrees can cut energy bills (and pollution) by 10 percent, so keep it at 68 degrees Fahrenheit in winter, and 60 degrees or less while you sleep. Chilly? Put on a sweater or add an extra blanket to your bed.

Fan the heat around. Running your ceiling fan clockwise, at a slow speed, recirculates warmer air that accumulates at the ceiling, reducing energy consumption by up to 10 percent.

Put on a greener log. Fireplaces aren't the most efficient--or cleanest--way to heat a home, but they can be awfully cozy. Look for artificial logs made of wood only, avoiding those that contain paraffin, a petroleum-based by-product with dubious emissions quality. (Duraflame has phased all petroleum-based waxes out of its logs). Some cool alternatives include fireplace logs made of recycled cardboard boxes, recycled-paper briquettes, and logs made of used coffee grounds, which burn hotter and longer than wood while producing fewer emissions and less soot.

Heating water is another big energy-hog year-round. A simple insulating blanket to improve the efficiency of your water heater costs only about $20 and is readily available at most hardware stores. Another way to save energy is to wash your laundry in cold water whenever possible. Since each load uses about 40 gallons of water, this small step can make a big difference: One household can eliminate more than a thousand pounds of greenhouse gas emissions in a year just by washing in cold.

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I have heard mixed reviews on whether or not to use a water heater blanket. Since I have gas water heaters, some plumbers do not advise using a blanket....any other comments?

Yes, BEFORE buying a water heater insulation blanket, check with the manufacturer or contractor who installed it. Newer gas-fired water heaters often should NOT have extra insulation around them.

The following is offered for inspiration!

ACTUAL RESULTS AFTER IMPLEMENTING ENERGY STAR IMPROVEMENTS

After comparing the energy audit results and recommendations of three different contractors in 2006, I chose one of the companies to complete the majority of work that needed to be done to make my home more energy efficient. (Other contractors completed smaller jobs.) The main contractor initiated the paperwork necessary for me to receive not only a $6,000 Energy Star grant, but also a 4% low interest loan through NYSERDA. Here is a list of the work done:

1. Replaced 1950’s era gas furnace with new high efficiency model
2. Replaced a nearly 20 year old refrigerator with an Energy Star model
3. Replaced a 1970’s era (avocado anyone?) washer with Energy Star model
4. Replaced (4) ten+ year old low-quality vinyl windows with Energy Star windows (remainder of windows already replaced with triple-pane vinyl windows)
5. Replaced (6) single pane basement & garage windows with glass block windows
6. Added Air Krete ® http://www.airkrete.com/ insulation in all exterior walls
7. Added foam insulation to all rim joists, and under house wing over garage
8. Replaced rear and side exterior doors (front door already replaced)
9. Finished installation of Hunter Cool-Vent TM panels on roof over vaulted ceilings http://www.hpanels.com/pages/cool-vent_articles.html

I now have a year’s worth of data on the resulting energy savings, from my local utility’s website showing my homes energy use over the past two years.

· My gas usage in therms decreased by 25%
· My electricity use in kWh decreased by 44%

Not too shabby, and I still have things to tweak.


I wonder about the advice to seal ducts. Since all the heat is still within the house is seems strange that there would be a huge savings ! I can see that the distribution to the rooms you want heated would be better, but the overall heating of the structure should not be affected unless there is an unheated crawlspace or other area that the ducts run through ! Please explain the 40 % savings, i just don't get it.
Thanks,

I turn my gas water heater to the low position & if I want to take a shower I turn it up 15 mins beforehand. Being single helps. In the summer it is warm enough to take a shower as is. Wash dishes in cold or lukewarm water.

There are a number of businesses that offer Biodiesel heating, too, by the way.

If I'm cold, I put on extra layers of clothes before I turn up the heater.

For more information about heat loss through improperly sealed ducts, check out these websites:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_improvement.hm_improvement_ducts

and

http://oikos.com/esb/28/duct_losses.html

I'm confused...always thought in winter you turn your ceiling fans "counter-clockwise" to circulate the heat that rises back into the room. Please advise which is right - clockwise or counterclockwise?

Sealing air-leaks in your home is a huge way to save energy.

All homes have areas where heat leaks out.. such as through cracks in window sills, and underneath doors. Find sealing caulks and weather stripping at your local hardware store or online at http://www.iwantcleanair.com

We have a wood stove insert with a catalyst and blower. The catalyst burns the gases from the wood more completely hence less wood and emissions. I burn wood from logging jobs that is not utilized by the loggers, mainly tops. Any comments?

Layering your clothing to accommodate the dipping temps and especially being concerned with keeping your feet, ears and hands dry and warm, solar heating units- even in winter, there are many days with enough sun to give you at least partial relief from oil/electrical heating, having a heated waterbed really saves energy- thermostat in place, heating only for a few hours of the day and making sure the bed is really covered so the heat doesn't dissipate, delaying heating the bed by wearing additional layers to sleep and even lying on a fleece blanket (over the sheets, fleece and quilts on sofa/armchair while watching tv/reading in the evening, hot drinks take the chill off, etc.

I, too, agree with those who say that covering yourself with a blanket, if you are cold, is the answer to keeping warm instead of turning up the heat. Because I live in southern Arizona, our winters here are tolerable. I've really forgotten what weather is like in the cold northern climes!

Regarding window insulation, also consider using insulated window shutters on the exterior that you can close at night. You can make a shutter with 2 inches of rigid foam that has an R-value of about 9. This is better than the interior coverings provide.

Do you have any recommendations or information on the effectiveness of using the Eden PURE Quartz Infrared Portable Heater? It is marketed by Biotech Research and claims that it can lower your heating bill by up to 50%.
Thank you

If we all except the inevitable doom of the species (like all species heretofor), what difference does it make if it happens now, a thousand years from now or 10000 years from now. Ditto for the planet. Use whatever resources the free market, your conscience and your wallet allow, and let the chips fall as they inevitably will anyway. ;)

In theory, it's helpful to know that an overhead fan can push air downwards. In practice, the resulting breeze FEELS cold a la "wind chill factor" (no matter which direction it was turning). Last winter family members complained, asking us to turn up the heat(which we keep on 67).We finally turned off the overhead fan. If you really believe should work, perhaps run the fan when no one is in the room. Our ceilings are only 7 feet, so maybe there is little savings here. However, I've found a different effective use of small fans; set small wood-stove fans on or over any hidden radiators, to push the warm air out from behind the furniture blocking it. (Again, don't sit or stand in the breeze.)

Owners of older houses should think twice about replacing windows. Analyze the payback period (it may be much longer than you think), and think about all the material that you will send to the landfill. Original windows in houses 75+ years old are made of irreplaceable old-growth wood and valuable wavy glass. What a waste to throw them away. Plus, most new windows are difficult or impossible to repair if they break, so guess what--you have to buy another new window. Wood or steel windows can be repaired by do-it-yourselfers. And unlike wood or steel windows, vinyl windows can't be painted if your tastes change. Finally, the vast majority of replacement windows just don't look right on an old house. The fake muntins between the glass panes look like adhesive tape. In most cases, you will be much better off tuning up your existing windows with integral weatherstripping (look for articles on the This Old House and Old House Journal websites), and investing in quality storm windows. The replacement window industry is rife with poor products and huge profit margins--that's why so many companies are out there advertising heavily--so think twice, and then think again.

I'm printin gout the "Winter's Day" article.

Hoever, b/cthe text runs only in the center, a lot of sidebar material, not needed in a printout, will print out, and a lot of extra pages used.

Other web sites have a Print link that--somehow--prints the key text in a wider column, thus using space efficiently.

Please consider. Thanks.

My home has only four modest-sized rooms and, therefore, I can heat it to 68 degrees night and day on 600 gallons a year. By leaving the thermostat constant, not only is the air warm but the furniture, particularly the bed, is also comfortable.

Those heaters are no good. We tried one. The electric meter was spinning and there was very little heat coming from the heater. We sent it back.

I have a warehouse building in NY. I would like to know how low can I turn the heat down to at night. Is it better to keep the building at 40F at night and reheat the building an hour before we return in the morning or to keep the heat at 60F through out the night? Would it take more oil to heat a cold building back up than it takes to keep the building 10-20F less than the normal temp?

I'm also interested in any advice regarding leaving the thermostat at a constant setting rather than turning it down at night and up in the morning. It makes sense to me but I'm wondering if there have been any studies done that prove it.

In regard to water heater blankets. Better check with the manufacturer before putting one on. As a 20 year plumber I know that most warranties are voided if you use these blankets because it doesn't allow for air circulation thru the jacket. When cold water enters the tank, condensation forms just like it does on a glass when you pour yourself a cold drink. The tank then rusts from the outside in. Nost new heaters are already about 1-3 inches thicker in diameter because of the extra foam insulation they contain. Something to think about.

A strategy I use for feeling warmer when the thermostat is lowered, or to warm the bed, is to heat a rice-filled pillow in the microwave (usually about two minutes on high). There's a brand called "Bed Buddy" by Lava, but mine are ones made by a local craft person using upholstery grade material. they have a couple of pounds of rice in them. They last two or three years before they begin to break down.

Why not have interested parties install a Nyle Special Products' heat pump water heater. Install in your unfinished basement in conjunction with your existing water heater. It takes the renewable heat from the uninsulated basement walls and floor and "pumps" it into your electric water heater. I metered it at a customer's house and found that in Pennsylvania it will produce 2.35 times the amount of hot water for the same amount of electricity. Put it at 235% efficient. How can that be? Well, it moves heat, it does not generate heat like an electric range coil. The heat pump unit is essentially a souped up dehumidifer that after chilling the basement air and condensing the unwanted humidity out of it, the waste heat is exchanged into a stream of water that is directed into the bottom of your water heater. In the philly region? google kevin castellan and give me a call.

My family and all our extended family lived in older houses back home with little or no insulation, wavy windows or windows with missing panes. We kept our heat turned very low. Everyone wore pajamas to bed.Our animals slept indoors and we wouldn't have dreamed of wasting money on a dog bed when a dog in the bed is so effective at keeping small feet toasty warm.If the temperature was going below freezing, the entire family moved beds or mattresses into one room until the freeze passed. The most expensive energy saving investment we ever made was the purchase of clear, heavy-duty plastic that our Dads or Grandfathers would staple over the windows especially the ones missing glass. Todays' environmental movement seems to overstress gadgets and technology and other expenses. Most are not necessary to save energy and they certainly aren't necessary to save money.

One idea not mentioned is to replace your old thermostat with an electronic, programmable thermostat. This works well for people with furnaces for two reasons. First, it allows for automatic temperature setbacks at night and during the day when the house is empty, which can save lots of heat and fuel. Comfort is not sacrificed if you program it correctly to come on in anticipation of your rising or returning home. Second it keeps a much more steady temperature in the home. Older thermstats can allow a temperature fluction of as much as six or eight degrees, which makes for both periodic discomfort and periodic overheating, which is wasteful.

Ceiling fans should blow upward gently so as to stir up the air and distribute the heat that normally collects up at the ceiling to the room where it can be enjoyed. If the fan blows downward or blows strongly, the draft will cause people to feel cool.

What I would really love to see an article on is how to reduce electric/heating bills for people who live in apratments or other rental facilities. Since we cannot make many changes to say our windows to decrease heat loss I'm wondering what we can do.

Stop using your clothes dryer. I purchased an inexpensive 5-line clothes line which can be owered for loading and unoading. I installed agaist the ceiling in the laundry room. It takes only 10 to 15 minutes to clthes-pin the laundry onto the lines, and the heat from my water heater dries everything in a few hours. Saves $8 to $10 a month

When we remodeled our "used" Southern California home we made sure to add the proper insulation. We also added a newer product called Reflectix that made a big difference. Our utility bills in the summer are 1/3 that of our neighbors and in the winter about 1/2. The reflective insulation in the attic helps keep heat out in the summer and inside in the winter. The insulation paid for itself the by the second year.

When I did the same to a friend's small rental house he thought I left a window air conditioner running. It was actually unplugged when I left, yet the small rental house was cool enough on a 100 degree day to not need the air conditioner on. The house was around 82.

Ceiling fans have a summer and winter mode. The summer mode pushes the air down and the movement of the air produces the cooling effect through convection and evaporation of your perspiration. The winter mode reverses the fan blades to run (typically) clockwise pulling air up from the center of the room, mixing it with the warmer risen air and circulating it across the ceiling and down the walls. In winter we run fans at the lowest speed possible which still disrupts the thermal stratification in the room. Watch your fan to see which direction the pitch of the blades is pushing the air. Down in summer, up in winter

Rhonda:
to make sure your ceiling fan is rotating in the proper direction light A candle [cigarette will work] and blow the candle out under the ceiling fan. If the smoke is pulled upward by the air current it means the cold air on the floor is being pulled upward to bring the hot ceiling heat back down to the floor where it belongs..In the summer the fan on high should blow the candle out or the smoke from the candle will not rise but be blown in all diections downward...

I'm from Alaska and was raised in A drafty poorly heated, poorly insulated home...
The best advice I could give for maintaining body heat is to wear A warm hat...
Your body is like A chimney and much or your blood supply is in your head...I understand that about 75% of your body heat leaves your body via the top of your head...A warm hat actually backs up the heat and your feet will feel the difference!!!You will also have less colds in my experience if you keep A hat on...{espeacially outdoors} While you're at it drinking hot tea or coffee or cocoa can only help!!!

When I had our house built I designed it to be passive solar with 3 floors having a southern exposure. The 4 foot overhang on the roof provides summer shade for the top floor south windows, a 4ft wide deck on that floor provides summer shade for the floor below it and that floor's deck provides shade for the lowest level. We have geothermal heat, in-floor radient heat to the lowest level and bath room floors. The windows and everything possible have the highest E rating possible. The exterior walls are SIP (Structured Insullated Panels). For anyone planning on building, do the best green and energy saving home that you can even if it means a smaller square footage and a smaller foot print. It can be done. Twila (Looks good with the Prius parked in front of it too.)

[i]In theory, it's helpful to know that an overhead fan can push air downwards. In practice, the resulting breeze FEELS cold a la "wind chill factor" (no matter which direction it was turning). Last winter family members complained, asking us to turn up the heat(which we keep on 67).We finally turned off the overhead fan. If you really believe should work, perhaps run the fan when no one is in the room. Our ceilings are only 7 feet, so maybe there is little savings here. However, I've found a different effective use of small fans; set small wood-stove fans on or over any hidden radiators, to push the warm air out from behind the furniture blocking it. (Again, don't sit or stand in the breeze.)[/i]

If youre feeling a breeze, youre either a) running it in the wrong direction, or b) running it too fast. Look at the blades. Make sure the air is being sucked up and you have it on the slowest speed.

In regards to the edenpure heater, We purchased one last winter for our basement, which has no heating vents. It really did a good job at heating the entire room with no hot or cold spots. However, we just moved in, so I don't know if the savings is there or not. The heater has a "thermostat" so, it cycles on and off automatically. I also feel very safe with it, cuz it doesn't get real hot! The whole room is very comfortable. We bought the large one!

A pellet stove is an amazingly efficient heating appliance. We have a 1600 square foot house with a very open layout. For our home to be an average of about 68 degrees, which is warm enough for us, we use 2 1/2 tons of pellets. Even at the super steep late season prices, good pellets are $250 bucks a ton. So I can heat my home for about $675.00 a winter. Of course, we don't crank the heat like crazy, and our house isn't huge. If I used our oil boiler it would cost me literally twice as much. Plus, pelets are from a renewable source and good pellets are recycled by-products from the lumber and furniture industry. Go pellets go!

I am SO with the person who covers their windows with plastic sheeting! I usually put cord putty in the cracks first (easily removed next spring & sometimes reusable), then tightly seal the window. If one measures to have a 2 - 3 inch overhang all around, and then wraps that edge around an inch wide paper strip (or really thin lathing) before tacking that sandwiched edge to the thin side of the window casement, the sheets can be re-used for yrs- (Oh yeah, label the sheets when removed: older houses often have a subtle & perverse variety of window sizes.) Less used rooms benefit from thicker, more opaque plastic; occupied rooms sacrifice a little insulation for better visibility. When one has artfully finished the seal with an electric hairdryer, so the unaware can't tell there's an additional sheet of plastic between them & Mother Nature, 'tis a secret thrill & thing of beauty ~ Window snakes (with sand or tiny beans) are delighted to live on the center split in the interspace all winter, too, as well as happily lying at the door sill. (If you make them, use commercial sand- Sea sand has little critters & over time, is not an olfactory plus.)

Electric plug-ins- all electric boxes on outside walls need sealing. You take the covers off, and buy form fitting thin pads that seal them up. cuts drafts and air infiltration down.

Rimjoists- if you have no basement ceiling, look between the floor joists to the outside walls. You should have at least 8 inches of fiberglass insulations or R-13-to 19 in foam. It is easy to buy 16 inch wide rolls to cut and put in. Do not stuff it. Do not put one around the pipe to outside faucet so heat can keep it from freezing.
Bryan in Minnesnowta-
PS- Go solar for heat and electricity!

Turn hotwater heater down to 120 degrees if you have a Dishwasher.
To 110 degrees if you dont.
SAve money!! Use a candy thermetor and test is every day until you get the temp right.
Bryan in Minnesnowta

Invest in Oil company stock to get back some of your energy dollars.

How to fight high gas prices:
1. Buy are the most fuel efficient vehicle you can afford. Do it sooner than later.
2. Use Ethanol/Buy a Flex fuel vehicle- may not be as efficient, it is not the overall answer,but does put some pressure on Big Oil and keep the money at Home.
3. Drive as little as possible- combine trips, carpool, whatever.
4. Drive conservatively- slow acclerations, coast to stop signs and no idling.

5. Invest in Oil companies to get back some energy dollars.

Concrete basement walls allow allow alot of cold in. If they are dry, the lowest cost way of insuatling is Gluing 4x8 sheets of foil covered foam to them and put tape over the seams. Now if dont have much money, just run them so they are at least 2 feet below ground level as most cold enters the exposed wall. OR Put in 2x4 stud walls, put foam on wall first, then put 2x4 walls up with plastic on each side, with R-13 insulation. You can then put electical in and sheetrock later. Raise the wall off the floor on short blocks of plastic wood (decking) in case of water and prevent water from wicking into the wall and rotting it. This makes a nice warm, cozy basement. I also ran thicker paneling sidewise on the wall, 2 inches off the floor, so if I got a flood, I can take the wet paneling off, tosss it, cut on the bottom 2-4 feet of wet fiberglass inslualtion and throw that, then put in NEW.
Bryan in Mnsnowta- the Solar Guy

My wife and I invested in a few good quality electic heaters,which we use one at a time aimed at us while we keep the thermostat way down:50 daytime,45 nighttime.We also use plastic on windows,long underwear,sweaters,etc.I estimate we have cut our gas bill at least in half.We used to go Winter tent camping,so it's not a stretch for us!

We installed a ceiling fan over a gas fireplace in the family room. Running it on the lowest speed in the proper direction can still cause a chill (too bad the fans don't have a 4th very-slow speed). But if we turn on the fireplace for a few minutes and then circulate the heated air the room temp is raised 4-5 degrees.

We also installed a new thermostat. The old one created variations of about 6-8 degrees. It was terribly cold before the furnace went on and it stayed on for about 20 minutes. Now the furnace is turned on just for a few minutes to raise the temp just 1 degree.

We also do the shrink wrap windows which is easy and inexpensive. That's a great idea to find a way to save the plastic for the following year; thx!

But with all this, it's still way too cold in the bedroom over the garage. Any tips on the best way to insulate a room over a "tuck-under"?

the foil or blue foam board insulators will give you the most insulation if you have limited height in garage, use that great stuff or caulk to seal any gaps. For outside faucets, just buy those faucet cup winter covers to keep them from freezing/bursting. than you can caulk the holes from inside and outside and pack rim joist with batting (caulk obviously prior to putting faucet cover on for winter)

In an apartment, you might consider cloth tapestries or large wall hangings that keep the heat inside the room. Rugs & carpets can help, but if you have a south-facing window, put an aquarium and/or blocks/stones/bricks in the sun, and leave a concrete floor bare where the sun hits. Water & concrete/ceramics suck up heat and let it out fairly slow. In summer of course, keep windows covered to keep old Sol outside! Plants might go in a window box or something. Be careful with infrared/glowing heaters! They're good for heating water and ceramics, metal too. But you could have spontaneous combustion? Don't fall asleep in front of one...

Those little cup=warmers for a coffee/tea cup are nice! Put a teensy bowl right-side up over the drink to keep it from evaporating too fast. Plus a warm cup is a great handwarmer! Put some dark cocoa in yer coffee and mocha out. And invest in compact flourescent light bulbs, they save bunches of juice! And if you can afford geothermal, look into it, it's the stuff, man!

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